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Although best known for his textile work, the Spanish-born Mariano Fortuny actually began as a fashion designer. Inspired by classical design, his crowning fashion achievement was the Delphos dress, a pleated garment reminiscent of Greek design. When he moved into textile design shortly after in 1921, the antiquarian influence remained, as both Italian Renaissance prints and techniques were utilized. While undeniably comparable to Brunschwig and Fils, Fortuny pieces tend to be richer in tone, a touch more palatial, and astoundingly enough—frequently crafted of cotton.

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